Natural Fabrics May Not Be As Sustainable As You Think
Natural fabrics such as cotton, silk, hemp, wool are considered by some as better for the planet because synthetic fibres are not only mand-made but they are derived from the petro-chemical industry. Natural fibres are by nature (excuse the pun) biodegradable, however, natural fibres must be grown, taking away precious arable land needed for food, often from the poorest regions. Growing natural fibres also uses up water, depriving people who require it for drinking, washing and growing food.
The Aral Sea was once the 4th largest lake in the world, however, cotton farming which started in the region in the 1950s has led to desertification - decimating the economy which relied on fishing. Cotton has also been linked to issues of forced labour in countries such as Uzbekistan, Azerbaijan, Turkmenistan, Tajikistan and Xinjiang. The latter, a province in China which produces over 80% of Chinese cotton fibre.
Man-made fibres, although manufactured, are made from natural materials, sometimes from waste sources such as wood pulp, a bi-product of the furniture industry. These credentials make man-made fibres a sustainable option. When you factor in land, water resources and chemicals used in the process of producing the fibre into textiles, then natural fibres may not always be the most sustainable. Some man-made products e.g. TENCEL™ by Lenzig, allegedly only uses material from sustainably managed plantations which are certified by the US government. The company’s REFIBRA™ is a closed loop process which means the textiles can be recycled to create new fibres. Closed loop design allows for materials to be taken back after the consumer disposes of the item, known as post-consumer waste and remade into new fibres.
Can Synthetic Fibres Be Sustainable?
Synthetic fibres are manufactured through chemical processes, using derivatives from the oil industry. Polyester and nylon are probably some of the most famous examples of synthetic fibres. Some synthetic fibres are considered sustainable because even though they were once petro-chemical based, they are made by re-using discarded fabrics, fishing nets and other textile waste that would end up in landfill. Econyl® for example is post-consumer waste fabric, recycled to create a new fibre which can be used for many types of products. From accessories such as sunglasses and handbags, to interiors. Econyl® has also become popular for swimwear and activewear. It is also considered circular because the raw material has polymers that can be chemically broken down and reassembled back into nylon.
The Problem with Microfibres
Unfortunately, synthetic fibres are not quite the sustainable option the industry was hoping for. Tiny plastic microfibers have been found in the ocean, snow and even aquatic life. Microfibres are tiny strands (which cannot be seen with the naked eye), released from synthetic fabrics like polyester. According to Greenpeace 700,000 fibres are released with each wash and up to 30% of ocean pollution is at a microscopic level.
Is Circular Design The Answer?
Circular design is an important framework to create sustainability in fashion, as the premise considers end-use at the design stage. By incorporating circular design into the product development process, designers consider raw materials as a finite assets that should not be discarded but reused for as long as possible. The circular design model is the diametric opposite to a linear model because it keeps products out of landfill. Designers choose materials that don’t impact the environment and can be recycled. Closed loop design is part of a wider framework of Circular Design.
Choosing sustainable fabrics is a complex process which needs some time and consideration since no fabric is 100% sustainable. Fashion businesses must consider many variables before making the best choice.
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Areas of expertise: Fashion Educator I Sustainability I Branding I Social Entrepreneurship
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